![]() I bought the truck 6 yrs ago and I should have done them at the time but I figured if it ain't broke, dont fix it. I then took my map gas torch and melted the plastic off and I put super glue in the insert holes and lightly tapped them in the intake and let it set for about a 1/2 hr for it to bond and bolted the coils on and all was good. I went to my local junkyard and got some bolts and inserts I got from Grand Marquis and I had to take a chisel and break them off the intake. I had to heat the plastic up where the brass insert goes into the intake with a heat gun and grabbed the broken bolt stud with vice grips and pulled inserts out. I also had a problem with getting the original coils off since 5 out of 8 coil bolts are rusted solid and I broke those bolts. Most of the time it's usually not a great outcome and threads are usually damaged. I put the plug back in it and it tightened up like normal with a ratchet and I put the coil back on and it has been fine ever since. So with that being said, I somehow missed tightening up that plug and I don't know how I missed it. I pulled the plug and coil out and looked down the thread with my inspection camera and I did not see any threads stripped. I opened up, the hood and the number 8 plug blew out. 3 weeks later, when I was making a turn, a plug blew out about 500 ft away from pulling into my shop. ![]() Last year on my 02 F250 5.4, I replaced my original plugs and coils at 143k and when I was working on the driver side, I had all 4 plugs out and when I put the new plugs in by hand and tightened them up with the ratchet. Everyone with a Triton dreads this issue when it happens. That sucks that you have to go through this. Here’s a link to the Cal-Van kit, which is one of the only two recommended from my internet research, the other being the Time-Sert kit (which is almost twice the cost). No waiting two weeks or more then as I will already have it. Sadly, the order has already been shipped, but as I intend to keep this truck for the foreseeable future, I will probably need the kit at a future date. A lot of the system hoses, etc., can be removed, but I wanted to try it quickly in case it worked and I could cancel my Amazon order. I wonder why they did that, but had so few threads for the spark-plug itself… That’s how much pressure the plug blew out under. Below is a pic of the coil with the broken tab. I havn’t yet installed the hold-down bolt, but I did fire up the engine and it ran fine. I then put in a new coil (extremely difficult to get access to the hold down bolt where the remainder of the original coil tab was still in place). So I bought a new plug and installed it (not easy) and it screwed in fine and by hand, I estimate it came to 20 ft-lbs where the spec is only 14. The picture below is not very clear as the boroscope lens was too close to the threads I was trying to see, but here’s the picture anyway: If they did it, they’d have to go good for it, or so I thought at the time. Darn it… I had the Dealer replace the plugs a few years back as I didn’t want to strip the threads. I occurred to me that the plug simply became loose and once it was almost at the ends of the threads holding it, it popped out. This indicates the plug didn’t simply blow out, but slowly loosened until hardly any threads were holding it, and then blew out.Īlso, only the last thread or two looked “rounded’ off and very little, if any, aluminum was present. Exhaust has been flowing by it for a while. As you can see below, the bevelled seat is dirty, not shiny. But today might be an exception.įirst, I had a good look at the plug that popped out. ![]() If I have any luck, it’s bad luck, like the glass is half empty vs. I think I’ve seen every video on this repair over the last two days! It's a long story why I just didn't tap for a larger bolt, but to make it short, it wasn't much of an option for this particular pan because of the drain-plug boss size. The cutter went a little too deep and the flanged end of the insert wasn't flush with the pan, so I also had to use one of those rubber coated drain plug washers. This latter advice is reflected on my experience when I bought a Time-Sert oil-pan drain plug kit. I would appreciate some advice on what repair kit to buy as well as any other advice about using the kit. has them for $400 and something, but the exchange rate will bring that up quite a bit). There's a Time-Sert 5553-8 kit, and I might buy it, but it's hellishly expensive (Amazon.ca wants over $1000 for one. I don't even know what mine is as I've never had the valve covers off. I started looking up repair kits and found myself confused. Naturally, it's the furthest one back on the driver's side, so getting to it won't be easy. I just had a spark-plug blow out on my 1999 F250SD with the Triton 5.4.
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